Alors, quiche! This savory tart, like many things French, is an unfussy mainstay of it’s homeland that has been distorted to a curious state of trendy idolatry dans les Etats-Unis. This is not to say that quiche’s merits aren’t deserving of love, for they absolutely are, but rather a comment on how les imbeciles americaines, in all the splendid glory of their gastronomic ignorance, become taken with food in puzzling ways, determining certain dishes to be in and out of favor, in and out of fashion. A quiche is the opposite of stylish, and therein lies it’s timeless success: a perfectly crumbly crust set with a simple custard of eggs and cream, and judiciously filled with a few complimentary ingredients. The stuff of fads? Je ne pense pas! No indeed, it is the humble nature of the dish that endears quiche to us so enduringly!
I don’t know anyone worth knowing in this world who isn’t enamored of tart crust, savory or sweet. In fact, I make it a point to discard people upon whom the pleasures of flaky pastry are lost, to keep my distance, for there is something fundamentally wrong with them, something reminiscent of disease, almost. Plus, if you make mini’s, you can call them quickies, as my friend does! I just received a porno call on Skype from a group sex chat, so forgive me if my mind has fallen into the gutter, but from where I stand right now, that seems a rather lurvely bonus.
The following is a recipe for quiche crust, and the instructions for two fillings, both of which derive from my time at Le Cordon Bleu: Wild Mushroom Quiche with Shallots and Chervil, and the classic Quiche Lorraine. Of course, you can fill quiche with anything, but remember this: quiche is a dish of peasant origin. It is practical, variable, and economical. If you approach the dilemma of how much filling to use with these guidelines in mind, erring on the stingy side, you will do well. I often like to envisage myself in ratty head-garb, torn clothing, and barefoot (with a smudge of dirt on my cheek for dramatic effect) when contemplating such matters. I council you to do the same. Pour in less custard than you want, and apply restraint when adding the filling. In this way, the crust will not be drowned, the tender lushness of the eggs and cream not overwhelmed, and the carefully chosen vegetables, cheeses, and/or meats properly discernible. Quiche is delightful for brunch or lunch, with the addition of a simple green salad.
A Note on Filling Combinations:
Quiche is best when it is simple. A combination of one or two vegetables, an intelligently chosen cheese, or perhaps a a bit of ham comprise a sound formula. And maybe a sprinkling of appropriate herb. More is not more in this case.
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